ISLAMABAD : Monitoring Desk – Two World No 1 mountaineers of Nepal tragically lost their lives along with 08 others including 02 women from Oman and US , 01 from Pakistan following a devastating avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram range bringing a sad end to this international expedition. This is an immense loss to the global mountaineering community.
Renowned Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja, who set a record for the fastest ascent of the world’s 14 highest mountains, Gurung, Yukta, climbed Everest more times than anyone were leading the team.
Pakistani rescuers have recovered bodies of three of 10 climbers swept away in avalanche on world’s 12th-highest peak. The regional Gilgit-Baltistan government identified the three as Nepali climber Pur Bahadur Gurung, Omani climber Nadhira Al Harthy and American climber Mallory Geis.
Nepal’s Nirmal Purja
Nirmal Purja, 43, was leading the group of 10 climbers on the 8,051-metre (26,414-foot) Broad Peak in northern Pakistan when an avalanche struck on Thursday, 28 July, and the group was reported missing.
He climbed the world’s 14 highest peaks in a record 189 days in 2019, an achievement featured in the Netflix documentary, 14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible. His record was surpassed in 2023.
Nepal’s Gurung Yukta
Nepal’s Gurung, known to his friends as Yukta, climbed Everest more times than anyone else from the Gurung community, with 10 successful ascents to his name, Nepal’s Online Khabar noted. He also successfully climbed 12 of the world’s 8,000-metre (26,246ft) peaks.
Yukta had also set a record by summiting Pakistan’s K2, the world’s second-highest peak, within 24 hours. He was regularly involved in rescue operations for tourists stranded in the mountains.
Other mountaineers from Nepal are Gyalu Sherpa, Nawang Thindu Sherpa, Kili Pemba Sherp, Nima Sherpa.
Oman’s Al Harthy
Al Harthy was the first Omani woman to summit Mount Everest. Broad Peak is the world’s 12th-highest mountain, a technically difficult climb in Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan region.
Oman’s Al Harthy held a master’s degree in geography and previously served as director of the Citizenship Department at Oman’s Ministry of Education, Gulf News reported. In 2019, she became the first Omani woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest, and then the first Omani to climb K2, the world’s second-highest mountain.
US’s Geis
For the US’s Geis, it was her first try at an 8,000-metre peak in Pakistan.
Geis, 39, lived in San Antonio, Texas. She announced on social media earlier this year that she was closing her Pilates studio to take “a giant leap of faith into the unknown to see where life goes … I have a sneaking suspicion there will be lots of helmets, harnesses, and crampons involved.”
The expedition comprised five Nepali climbers, the Omani and American climbers, Pakistani climber Sohail Sakhi, a Chinese climber identified as Wang Yong, and one other climber, according to the Alpine Club of Pakistan, which first reported the group missing.
“Today it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak,” his expedition company, Elite Exped, said on social media on Saturday.
“We have also received confirmation that other members of the expedition sadly did not survive,” it added, without giving details.
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Earlier, Pakistani officials said rescuers had located four bodies and recovered three of them on Friday in harsh weather that hampered flights by search-and-rescue helicopters. Efforts continued on Saturday.
The area in which the search was taking place is “remote and difficult”, said Sajid Hussain, deputy director of the tourism department in Gilgit-Baltistan.
Nepal’s Prime Minister Balendra Shah offered his condolences over the “tragic” deaths of Purja and the other climbers, which he said had “shocked us”.
“The physical journey of all the deceased climbers … has been interrupted, but the history of their courage, dedication, and contributions will always remain inspiring,” Shah said in a statement on social media.
Of the world’s 14 highest peaks, eight are in Nepal, five in Pakistan and one in Tibet. Climbing experts say barely more than three dozen mountaineers have climbed all 14 peaks to date. Broad Peak is considered one of Pakistan’s most challenging climbs.
Key Details of the Tragedy
Location: Broad Peak (8,047m), the world’s 12th-highest mountain in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.
Date: The team was struck by an avalanche in late July 2026, with confirmation of fatalities issued at the start of August 2026.
Impacted Team: An international group of 10 climbers, including trusted guides and partners such as Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa, as well as other notable international mountaineers.
Nirmal Purja’s Legacy
Project Possible (2019): Climbed all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 meters in just 6 months and 6 days, shattering previous speed records.
K2 Winter Ascent (2021): Co-led the historic first-ever winter ascent of K2 alongside a team of elite Nepali mountaineers.
Inspiration: Transitioned from the British special forces to become a pioneer, leader, and advocate for human potential in high-altitude mountaineering.
