Pearls of the Black Sea Region – Giresun and Ordu – A Travelogue by Cavid Şahverdiyev

Cavid Şahverdiyev

Every trip organized by the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Tourism Promotion and Development Agency (TGA) is interesting and memorable. One such trip took place on August 14-17 to the cities of Giresun and Ordu in the Black Sea region with the participation of 5 media members from Azerbaijan and 3 from Georgia.The plane departing from Istanbul landed at Ordu-Giresun Airport. We were welcomed by our guide Mustafa Yalçın Yalçıngaya and Özden Vanli, a valuable employee of TGA…

Giresun – The Pearl City of Black Sea

…Our first acquaintance began with Giresun, one of the pearl cities of the Black Sea, in the heart of the mountains in the northeast of Anatolia. Located between the Black Sea and high, green mountains, Giresun is located on a peninsula jutting out to sea.

There are sources that date the creation of the city to 350 BC. According to the information provided by Greek geographers and travelers about the Eastern Black Sea and Giresun, as well as ancient Anatolian historical research, city and settlement history, language research, the presence of Turks in this region from 2000 BC to the present day is an undeniable fact. The population is 500 thousand people. Giresun is twinned with the city of Shaki in Azerbaijan.

Located on the eastern Black Sea coast, the city also has the Giresun Peninsula. With 122 km of coastline, the city is also a tourist city. The best time to visit Giresu is during the summer months. The best time to visit the city is during the summer months when the days are hot and humid and the evenings cool.

Giresun Castle

Our first stop was Giresun Castle, one of the most important tourist attractions of the city.
Giresun Castle is located in the north of the city, on a hill overlooking the city of the peninsula. The surviving remains of the castle are the central tower and its southern city walls. At the bottom of the city walls, a section of large rectangular stone blocks gives the impression that the walls and the fortress belong to the Hellenistic and Roman period.

The fortress of Giresun was built at a strategic point that could keep the sea and the land under control. There is no exact information about when the castle was built and what kind of settlement it was. Although some sources claim that the settlement or citadel of Kerasus was founded by the Milesians, who began establishing colonies in the Black Sea region in 670 BC, the foundation of the citadel was established by the Pontus king Pharnakes I (c. 190-169 CE) is the dominant opinion.

Archeological findings from the excavations on Giresun Island, which is thought to have started at the same time as the castle, belong to the Archaic Period (1050-600 BC). It is not fully clarified when the fortress came under the control of the Turks. Some historians say that the fortress was captured shortly before 1341 during the raids of the Chepni Turkmen. In 1461, with the capture of Trabzon by Mehmet the Conqueror, the city and fortress of Giresun permanently passed into the hands of the Turks.

The fact that the fort dominates the sea and is located at the junction of trade routes indicates that it was a military building for the purpose of coastal control. On the highest point of the castle is the grave of Topal Osman, and on the northern slope facing the sea, there is the martyrdom and tomb of Haji Bektashi Veli’s disciple Gurban Deda.

(FISKOBIRLIK)

After the acquaintance of the journalists with the Giresun castle, their next stop was the Union of Hazelnut Agricultural Sales Cooperatives (FISKOBIRLIK). This is not a coincidence. After all, Giresun is known as the hazelnut capital of Turkey. Hazelnuts are a product of great economic importance that has been cultivated in Giresun for centuries. Its leading position in hazelnut production is the result of geographical, historical and economic factors.

Giresu’s strategic location on the Black Sea coast creates ideal climate and soil conditions for hazelnut cultivation. This city is also one of the most important agricultural regions of Turkey and plays a leading role in hazelnut production. Hazelnuts are a defining factor in the city’s economy and form an important part of the city’s cultural heritage.

FISKOBIRLIK, after the 1st international hazelnut congress held after the proclamation of the Republic with the words of Atatürk, “Unions related to our other main products, especially hazelnuts” were established on July 28, 1938 with the merger of Giresun, Ordu, Trabzon, Keshap and Bulancak Hazelnut Cooperatives. is established.

FISKOBIRLIK is the largest producer association in the world in its field, which is the insurance of the country’s hazelnuts and has a variable number of partners associated with 50 cooperatives from Istanbul to Artvin.

Its main goal is to provide products needed by domestic and foreign markets to the final consumer with a reliable and high-quality food approach, to increase the producer’s income and standard of living while ensuring the efficient and sustainable use of the producer’s agricultural and ecological resources.

Journalists got to know the working mechanism of this union.The officials of the union gave full and extensive information about each production.They followed the process of making hazelnut oil and kerim, starting from receiving, cleaning, sorting, packing and packaging of nuts.

High quality products are not only delivered to local buyers, but also exported to foreign countries at FISKOBIRLIK, which complies with all hygienic and safety rules. FISKOBIRLIK is among the leading manufacturers in the world with its cheap and high-quality products.

It should also be noted that according to the 2023 Hazelnut Production report of the Institute for the Development of Agricultural Economics and Policy, in the cultivation of nuts in Turkey, hazelnut is the first with 61.32%, walnut is second with 18.77% Hazelnut production in Turkey in 2021 It was 684 thousand tons. Hazelnut production in 2022 increased by 11.8% compared to the previous year and reached 765 thousand tons.

Kuzalan travertines and Goksu travertines

The journalists also visited Kuzalan travertines and Goksu travertines, which are located in Dereli district of Giresun and are called “white stone” by the citizens of the district and formed by mineral waters.

It should be noted that the Kuzalan travertines, located in the Kuzalan Nature Park with an area of ​​approximately 500 hectares, cover an area of ​​1,800 meters and are the second largest travertine area in the world after Yellowstone National Park in the United States.

The area around the main source, which produced the Kuzalan travertines, the largest travertine area in the region, is completely covered with moss. Water flowing over the moss begins to accumulate travertine after a few meters, and once travertine accumulation begins, the moss rapidly loses its area and disappears.

Goksu travertines, located in the village of Pınarlar, about 4 kilometers from Kuzalan Nature Park, are reminiscent of mini Pamukkale with their turquoise and white colors and large and small ponds in the form of terraces created by a project. Travertine is formed by soda water with high mineral value.

Goksu Travertine became one of the most famous tourist centers of the region in a short time. With the project started in 2020 by the Directorate of Culture and Social Affairs of the Provincial Special Administration of Giresun Governorate, many large and small ponds were created in the form of terraces in Goksu travertines located in Pınarlar village of Dareli region.

New projects have been prepared so that the travertines, whose number of visitors is increasing day by day, can take a larger share of tourism. Goksu travertines were brought to regional tourism 3 years ago. The water that flows here to the day. it changes its color under the influence of its rays, it has therapeutic value, especially itchy feet, it is an ointment for wounds. Last year, it received 300,000 guests. 500-600 thousand visitors are expected this year.

Mavi Lake, which consists of four big and small lakes in Goksu river, is also in the same valley. It closes in October and is open to tourists again from May 1.
Blue Lake is a confluence of three lakes and is known locally as “Soda Lake or Blue Lake”.
The water of the blue lake turns turquoise especially in the summer due to the influence of limestone, and the Goksu stream, the only soda stream of the Black Sea, offers its visitors an unprecedented beauty…

…As a result, Gires offers tourists an unforgettable experience with its natural beauty, historical heritage and rich cultural life. Every year, thousands of visitors choose this place to explore and enjoy this unique city.

Gate of the Eastern Black Sea – Ordu

After getting acquainted with Giresun, the journalists arrived in the morning to Ordu, another touristic city of the Black Sea, located 40 kilometers away. Ordu has one of the longest coasts of the Black Sea. It is notable for its blue flag beaches, beautiful coasts, nature sports such as paragliding and trekking.

There are many places to visit and see in Ordu – Aybastı Thursday Plateau, Hoynat Island, Yason Cape, Ohtamysh Waterfall, Gaga Lake, Chavuşlar Waterfall, Chambaşı Plateau, Chaka Beach, Keyfalan Plateau, Kabaduz Ablak Stone, Chiseli Waterfall and Boztep with its impassable canyon.

According to the data of the beginning of 2024, the population of the central Ordu province is 769,692 people. Due to the Black Sea climate and mountainous geographical location, it is the 3rd province of Turkey that receives the most rain. It is located in the Eastern Black Sea region of the Black Sea region.

However, due to new regional statistical rules designed to eliminate regional confusion, the entire Ordu province remained in the Eastern Black Sea region. The Black Sea is in the north of the province, Tokat and Sivas provinces in the south, Samsun in the west, and Giresun in the east.

The city of Ordu was built on the slopes of Boztepe. It is located 450 meters above sea level, and it is insatiable to see all the beauties of the province and the majesty of the Black Sea from Boztepe. It is 6 kilometers from the city center and can be reached by asphalt road or cable car if you prefer. There are food, drink and leisure facilities and wooded picnic areas. Ordu is fraternized with the city of Ganja in Azerbaijan.

Hoynat Island

Journalists first visited Hoynat Island. It is located within the boundaries of Hoynat Ramazan village. It is about 100 meters from the beach. It covers an area of ​​about 700 square meters. It has not been inhabited throughout its history. The tunnel on the Fatsa coastal road, at the level of Hoynat Island, is named Hoynat Tunnel after the name of the island.

Hoynat must have been used as a warehouse and shelter by sailors in ancient times. Remains of walls discovered on the island suggest that this place was surrounded by walls. The island is a breeding ground for herring gulls and cormorants.

Yason Burnu peninsula

Later, members of the media went to Yason Burnu peninsula.The peninsula is on the old Ordu-Samsun road. Although the front of Yason Cape is rocky, ships can stop here. It has been opened for tourism since January 10, 2008. 90 thousand local and foreign tourists visited Yason Burn last year.

At the base of the cape is an old monastery/church called “Panaya”. Panaya Church is located on a peninsula within the borders of Chaytepe.

This church was built in 1868 by Greeks and Georgians living in the region. Yason Burnu is actually a very old settlement. In the 3rd century AD, Christians lived in Giresun. After celebrating the birth of Jesus, he came here and participated in the Festival of Lights.
The peninsula is also famous for the legend of the Argonautics, which tells of the Argonauts’ search for the Golden Globe under the leadership of Jason.

The church, which was about to collapse over time, was restored to its original state in 2004 by the restoration work of former Ordu Governor Kemal Yazıcıoğlu. Only the dome is in the Ottoman style.

Kahraman Sagra mansion

Journalists found time and opportunity and visited the historic three-story Kahraman Sagra mansion located in the Selimiya quarter of the Central Altynordu district of Ordu. The building was restored by Ordu Metropolitan Municipality. With the support of the local people, the historic manor house was used as a museum of hazelnuts, bringing together the items used in hazelnut cultivation.

The process of hazelnuts from planting to production, harvesting to processing and transportation is explained to local and foreign tourists who visit the museum, where the difficult journey of hazelnuts is explained through materials. In this museum, visitors can see each stage step by step and learn more about hazelnuts.

The journalists’ last stop was Boztepe. It should also be noted that the city of Ordu was built on the slopes of Boztepe. It is located 450 meters above sea level, and it is insatiable to see all the beauties of the province and the majesty of the Black Sea from Boztepe. It is 6 kilometers from the city center and can be reached by asphalt road or cable car if you prefer. There are food, drink and leisure facilities and wooded picnic areas.

Boztepe, the symbol of the army

It is insatiable to watch Boztepe, the symbol of the army, from the city, and the city from Boztepe. We climbed to the top with a kite. Boztepe, Bozukkale (Kotyora), Kural Rock Settlement, Büben Rock Tombs, Taşbaşı Culture Center (Old Prison-Church), Ethnography Museum (Paşaoğlu Mansion) located in Ordu Center are some of the historical monuments. Being a settlement for centuries, the city with its old mosques, fountains, rock tombs, forts, corridors on rocky hills, handicrafts, artisans is really worth seeing in terms of culture and tourism…

…You can go to the army in 4 seasons of the year. Ordu is one of the most beautiful corners of the world with its natural resources, historical texture, sea, streams and plateaus. It is possible to find all shades of colors in the army.

In the city where four seasons are experienced in one day, you can do all kinds of nature sports. Bird watching, mountaineering, trekking, camping, picnicking, watching the sunrise and sunset, swimming, fishing in the insatiable highlands and above all, relaxing…